Gears – Crosscut saws knowledge – Maxime Mercier
I want to use this page to help competitors understand what is a crosscut saw and how it work. I will try to be as accurate as possible so it can help people use their saw to its maximum potential.
First: The handles.
- Vintage Saw Handles
- Most were long and positioned above the saw. This design helped prevent injuries and reduced the need for workers to bend over when cutting logs close to the ground.
- Another model which inspired the modern ones is called “West coast style handles”. They are straight and attached to the middle of the saw.
- Straight Handle
- These are a modified version of vintage handles, made to fit in the middle of the saw.
- They give more control over the saw and make it possible to add weight while sawing.
- Straight Handle with an Angle at the Bottom
- They are designed to follow the natural position of the bottom wrist.
- These are my personal favorites.
Second: the Types of Saws
- M-tooth
- This type of saw uses teeth that cut and break the wood at the same time.
- By design, their teeth are more robust compared to pegs and rakers.
- They used to be the best option when vintage saws were still used in competitions.
- A smaller or weaker competitor might struggle to run them.
- Today, very few competitors use M-tooth saws, but they can still perform well in very hard wood
- 4 Cutters
- The 4-cutter design isn’t as popular as it was in the early 2000s, but it is still a valid choice in some situations.
- For lighter competitors, or for those who don’t put as much weight on the saw, they can be a good option.
- With average technique, they tend to be mostly push-and-pull.
- Because they have more teeth, they may not require sharpening as often as other types of saws.
- They are often smoother to run, meaning they can usually be run at a good pace.
- Compression wood won’t slow this saw as much as it would with other models.
- They are also more difficult to hang at the bottom of a cut.
- 3 Cutters
- The modern 3-cutter saw is a hybrid between the 2-cutter and the 4-cutter. The goal was to combine the benefits of both designs.
- Like the 4 cutters, this saw forgives mistakes more than a 2-cutter would.
- As with the 4 cutters, compression wood and sap spots are not felt as much as with a 2-cutter.
- 2 Cutters
- The 2-cutter design is currently the fastest two-person saw, and it also has the potential to be the fastest one-person saw when the wood and technique are good.
- Because of the simpler design, it is usually less expensive to buy.
Third: Saw Weight
- Thicker and/or Larger Plate
- Most Tuatahi/KBT one-person saws use this kind of plate.
- Because they are heavier, more weight is placed on each tooth, allowing each tooth to dig into the wood more effectively.
- The added weight also creates more inertia, which can make it harder to achieve a fast pace.
- Thinner and/or Smaller Plate
- Most original Mercier saws and I believe Pfenninger saws as well use thinner, smaller plates, which makes them relatively light.
- A faster pace can be achieved with a slender saw.
- Because it is lighter, better technique is required to reach its full potential.
- Wide Gullets
- Wider gullets mean more storage for sawdust.
- They also mean fewer rakers and fewer teeth, which has two consequences:
- More weight on each tooth
With fewer teeth in the wood, each one carries more weight and digs deeper on its own.
A strong competitor with a good pace can do very well even without perfect technique. - The saw reaches its maximum potential faster
Since each tooth removes more wood, the saw reaches its performance ceiling sooner.
- More weight on each tooth
- Because these saws have a wider gap between rakers and cutters, there is a greater risk of hanging at the bottom of a cut.
- A good trick to avoid this: short-stroke the saw near the bottom.
- A good trick to avoid this: short-stroke the saw near the bottom.
- Thin Gullets
- Thinner gullets mean more teeth and more rakers.
- Better technique is required to make the rakers work efficiently.
- Because more teeth sit in the wood at the same time, less weight is placed on each one.
- The maximum potential of these saws is higher because each tooth has more room to cut deeper.
- Also, because the gap between rakers and teeth is smaller, it is harder to hang the saw at the bottom of a cut.
Fourth, Saw Radius
- Smaller Radius (Rounder Saw)
- With a smaller radius, each tooth attacks the wood more aggressively during a straight push—until you pass the middle—after which a slight heeling adjustment may be required.
- Be careful: too much heeling makes you slide on the back foot of the raker, preventing the next tooth from doing its job.
- During the pull, a slight lift is required throughout the entire motion.
- With a smaller radius, each tooth attacks the wood more aggressively during a straight push—until you pass the middle—after which a slight heeling adjustment may be required.
- Bigger Radius (Flatter Saw)
- With less radius, a faster pace can usually be achieved, but better technique is required to make the saw cut efficiently.
- For one-person sawing, the motion is mostly straight push and pull, with a slight lift at the end of the pull.
Fifth, the Set
- During the saw making process, the teeth are bent in a way so they cut more than the thickness of the plate.
- When a saw is stoned and sharpened, the set will diminish. When the set gets too small, the saw will become harder to pull in bigger wood.
- A good wedger can help to make the cut go smoother.
- But keep in mind, aggressive or frequent stoning will diminish the set faster than than a refiled. In some case, it can even make the teeth shorter.
Sixth, Saw Length